The first thing I should probably make clear is these are not “true” macro images, where there is a 1:1 ratio from the size of the object, to it’s size on your cameras sensor. This is more of a “macro-style” tutorial, where your camera is very close to the object you are trying to photograph. For a complete overview of true macro photography, take a look at it’s Wikipedia article.

As well, it will probably benefit you to have a DSLR while taking these photos. While not a requirement, a DLSR is always nice because it gives you the ability to easily change the camera’s settings such as the aperture, shutter speed, exposure, etc. Most point and shoots do not offer these options.

Choosing a Scene

The first thing to look for when choosing a scene for a macro photograph is obviously, small objects. Take a look around your yard, house, or even a forest if you have one around. Try to look for interesting textures, colors, patterns, etc. Something that might look odd from a few feet away make look really neat close up.

In particular, try looking for for something with a lot of texture. I found an old fencepost, that had lots of interesting textures, cracks, and some mold/moss on it, which makes for great close up shots. Another good idea is to find a subject that has quite a bit of color and/or contrast, so it’ll stand out in the image. If your scene is too dull, then it won’t make for a very interesting image.

Setting up your Camera

Once you’ve decided on a scene, you need to figure out how to set up your camera.

I recommend using a tripod if you can, but this always isn’t possible, or it’s just more convenient to use your camera freehand. Remember though, as I’ve mentioned before, no tripod means your image will probably have some blur in it.

As well, we should probably go over how to set the settings on your camera. If you’re using a point-and-shoot, then this probably doesn’t apply to you, since they don’t really give you the amount of control that a DSLR does.

• If you want a very short depth of field, then open up your aperture all the way. This also decreases the exposure time, since more light can get to the sensor
• If you want a very long depth of field, close the aperture. Unfortunately, this increases your exposure time greatly, and you’re pretty much forced to use a tripod
• One technique you can try to get a shorter exposure time is to, well, lower the exposure. I only recommend doing this as a last resort, as it will lower the quality of your image, since you’ll need to bring up the exposure in Photoshop at later time.

Also, as a quick side-note, I should probably mention it’s best to shoot during the day when it’s sunny, or at least when it’s fairly bright. A darker environment means a longer shutter speed, which means more possible blur, and more noise. You can use a flash, but unless taken just right, the flash can remove some of the natural look from the image, and even make it look washed out. If you have an external flash, use it.

Crawling around for the shot

Don’t be afraid to get a onto the ground and crawl around under a tree or bush to find a cool shot, you might find a perspective that you’ve never seen before, and may even like.

Examples and Resources

Here are some examples of some macro-style images that I’ve taken, as well as some links to great sources of inspiration.

Macros on Flickr

25 stunning macro images on Smashing Magazine